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I thought
that I would put a few things that I have learned on paper as a reference for
you and your new puppy. Some of them I have learned the hard way, but most
of the bits of advice have come from other people who have been raising dogs for
a long time and know what they are talking about!
1.
See your vet
regularly. Your puppy has had its
first and maybe second round of shots when it arrives.
You will need to continue worming the puppy at regular intervals, and you
will need to also continue with the vaccines. You
will also need to protect your puppy from heartworms and should talk to your vet
about how.
2.
For the
prevention of ticks and fleas, I recommend Frontline Spray or a topical
treatment. I also use NexGard here for my
adult dogs. It is used once a month.
You have to reapply monthly. Most
of the time you have to buy Frontline or NexGard at your vet, but it can also be purchased
other places now. I also use the
Addam’s spray occasionally between treatments when Frontline seems to have
lost its effectiveness.
3.
Feed your dog a
quality dog food that is high in protein. I
am currently using Pro Fat, a dog food that is available to feed stores.
I recommend using Eukanuba, Iams, or Purina Dog Foods, which can be
purchased at pet stores,
grocery stores, etc. I use
the dry dog food and soften it or my puppies so that it is easier for them to
eat. Canned dog food often causes
stomach problems. Make sure that
your puppy has access to fresh water all the time.
Also, some people feed their dogs the same food that they eat.
Please don’t do this. Your
dog will have a much longer life if you refrain from feeding it “table
food”.
4.
Your puppy will
begin to chew on things because he/she is teething.
You will need to supply rawhide chews, or other toys for her to chew on.
When the puppy chews on things that are inappropriate, please offer them
the chews instead. You can clap your
hands (to get their attention) and tell them “no” when they have
unacceptable behavior. Your dog is
highly intelligent, and will learn what no means.
You can also use a rolled up newspaper to discipline the puppy (it is
effective, and won’t harm him/her).
5.
Treat your puppy
like a new baby. Keep it away from
unvaccinated animals and places that those animals have been until all of the
shots are complete. Any public place,
especially rest areas, and places that other animals have visited may be
dangerous to expose your new baby to.
6.
Grooming:
There are different levels of care for different breeds of dogs. Poodles
don’t shed, so they make excellent house pets.
You will need to take them to the groomer every 6 to 8 weeks though.
Other breeds may not need to be groomed, but you will need to make sure that
they also get the care they need.
7.
You will need to
brush your puppies’ fur regularly.
A.
Poodles: Your puppy has hair that grows inside his ears.
This hair must be pulled out, but the groomer usually does this job.
Check your puppy’s ears because if hair is left, it can trap dirt and
cause an ear infection.
B.
Brushing dogs that shed regularly will decrease the amount of shedding on your
furniture, etc.
8.
Sometimes small
dogs are stressed by changes, travel, or if they are injured.
When this happens their sugar level drops. If you notice your puppy lying
around an excessive amount, try to entice him to play.
If he will not, give him a tablespoon of water and sugar or ½ to 1
teaspoon of honey or corn syrup depending on the size of your dog.
9.
To house train
your dog, I recommend crate training. It
is the easiest way that I have found to train my dogs.
They like to be in their crate as a safe haven sometimes as well.
Please read the following article I found on the internet for more information
If you
have any questions, please ask your vet. I
also don’t mind phone calls, and e-mails when it is something that I can help
you with.
Thanks!
Enjoy your puppy as much as our family has enjoyed ours!
Rhonda
Alexander and family
The
following is an article that I found on the Internet that I thought might also be helpful:
Crate
Training Your Dog!
Lyn Richards
Crate Training and
"Potty" Training
Remember that repetition is necessary. Your puppy will not understand what
you want unless you repeatedly show him/her the desired behavior MANY times.
Keep in mind also that your puppy does not know what is expected and must be
shown the proper place to eliminate, and when.
Your best potty training friend is your crate. When you cannot watch your
puppy, use a crate. Think of the crate the same way you think of a playpen for a
human child. Even if you are only leaving the room for a "minute,"
either take the puppy with you or use the crate. After all, you would not leave
a toddler in the house alone "for just a minute" would you?
Crate training can be fun for the puppy if you make it a POSITIVE experience.
The DEN is an integral part of the wild dog’s upbringing and safety zone. The
same thing applies to the "crate". Giving the pup special
"treats" is a great way to introduce him to his crate. The only time
the puppy receives these special treats is when he is in the crate; the treats
become associated with the crate.
Use the crate wisely. Don't crate only when you are leaving the house. Place
the puppy in the crate while you are home as well. Use it as a "safe"
zone, or for "time outs". (Thus keeping your sanity)
By crating when you are home AND while you are gone, the puppy becomes
comfortable in the crate and not worried that you will not return, or that you
are leaving him/her alone. This helps to eliminate separation anxiety later in
life.
Most puppies will not soil their "den." The first couple of tries
you might have some accidents, but don't be discouraged. An easy way to avoid
accidents in the night for the first few weeks is by following this routine:
1. Set your alarm for about 3 hrs after your normal bed time. When the alarm
goes off, get up immediately, go to the crate and CARRY the pup outside (I do
this in my robe, with my shoes kept by the door to the outside). Place him on
the ground and encourage him to eliminate. PRAISE when he does, and bring him
back to the crate. Go back to bed.
2. Set your alarm for another 3 hrs, and get back to sleep. When the alarm
goes off repeat part 1.
3. After about a week of the above routine, IF it has been successful (no
crate messing) then you can set the alarm for * way through your sleep time.
Follow the remainder of part 1. When you arise in the morning, TAKE the pup
outside BEFORE you do anything else. Feed the pup and then crate. Follow your
regular waking routine, then walk the pup one more time before going off to
work.
4. Repeat the feeding, walking and crating at lunch time. Pups from the ages
of 2 to 4 months CANNOT control their elimination for much more than 4 hours, so
if you cannot return home at lunch time, arrange for someone to do this for you
at lunch.
If the CRATE is too large, the pup can easily soil on one side and sleep on
the other. The way to prevent this is to buy a crate that will accommodate your
pet when it is fully grown. Then get a box that will fit inside the back of the
crate. The box should be large enough that there is only room for the puppy to
stand and lie down comfortably.
As the puppy grows, provide more room by putting in a smaller box, or cutting
down the size. When the puppy reliably asks to be put outside to eliminate,
remove the box so the puppy can use the whole crate.
If the puppy messes the crate, replace the box size to the point at which the
puppy was reliable, and just give the pup a little more time to learn. In
conjunction with crate training, potty training starts immediately.
Whenever you remove the puppy from the crate or just want the puppy to
"go potty," take the dog to the door that will always be used to
"go outside." Use the SAME door throughout the training period.
On the handle of this door, tie a bell to a string, dropping it even with the
height of the puppy's nose. When you bring the puppy to the door, lure the puppy
to touch the bell with either it's nose or paw, (using a treat) causing the bell
to ring.
After the puppy rings the bell, give it the treat, (use a SMALL piece of meat
or dried liver) and say "OUTSIDE" in a happy tone of voice. Take the
puppy outside on leash.
Reminder: During housebreaking DO NOT allow the pup outside to eliminate
alone or loose in the yard. Yes, that means in the rain, snow, whatever: YOU GO
OUTSIDE ALSO. Give the puppy plenty of time. Don't rush or you will be sorry.
When the puppy urinates or defecates, praise the puppy with "Good
Outside" and again, give the puppy a tiny, tiny treat.
Continue to wait. When the puppy poops, again praise the puppy with
"Good Outside" and give a treat. Go back inside, stop at the door
again, and treat once again. If the puppy does not "potty" even after
staying outside 15 minutes, return back inside, place the puppy back into the
crate, wait 15 minutes and start again from the beginning.
If done religiously, this training process should take only about 2 weeks for
the puppy to understand. This method will work with any dog, regardless of age.
If you adopt a dog from a shelter or a rescue program, follow the same routine.
Remember, even though the dog is older or even an adult, he still does not know
the rules of your home, and may not have ever BEEN in a house. Be PATIENT and
this method WILL work.
Take it slow and easy...be PATIENT....and have FUN with your dog!
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